From Islay to Taipei, Abi discusses global whisky culture.

I remember my grandfather had a book all about Scotch whisky: how it’s produced, the different regions, and most importantly, how to drink it. My grandfather was never a true whisky connoisseur, but I distinctly remember him saying that contrary to popular belief, “single malt Scotch is best enjoyed with a dash of water.” This, he told me, is the way a real whisky drinker takes their dram. I was ambivalent about this advice (my most intimate experience with whisky in my early twenties was the world’s worst hangover on Southern Comfort). But it was the moment that a sense of shame around how one drinks alcohol was planted in my mind, horrific hangovers aside.

Many newcomers to the single malt Scotch world endure a period of imposter syndrome. It’s a reasonable intimidation, given the long tradition of Scotch-drinking. But the times they are a-changing! In 2015, drinkers over the age of 65 made up the largest age group of Scotch whisky drinkers in the US. In 2018, that changed to drinkers aged 25 to 34. Pair this with the rising popularity of whisky in new markets, and a shakeup of drinking traditions was guaranteed.

Curious about the way Scotch is approached in different cultures, I caught up with Global Brand Ambassador, Abigail Clephane last month to hear her thoughts.

Abi’s work as a Brand Ambassador has her traveling around the globe to host events and trainings for Bruichladdich Distillery. She's primarily in Asia-Pacific but also spends a fair amount of time in the UK and Europe. A typical trip for Abi starts with a 6:30am alarm. A few planes, trains, and automobiles later and she’s arrived at her destination. Her afternoons are occupied with tasting events for trade teams, followed by evenings of consumer events, such as a bar takeover or whisky tasting. Then it’s rinse and repeat for three to four weeks before returning to Glasgow for local events – and some respite. It’s an intense schedule, and not well-suited for the introvert or anyone with less than superhuman energy levels.

Abi’s entry into spirits was an accidental one. She’d been working at an underground electronic music club in Aberdeen doing PR and writing their fanzine, when the owners bought a cocktail bar and needed someone to run it.

“I hope you’re not looking at me,” Abi had told them, “because all I drink is literally pints of Strongbow cider with blackcurrant.”  

She knew nothing about spirits and had no interest in the bar or cocktail scene – her passions lay in music. Somehow, they convinced her and shortly after, Abi was researching spirits, creating cocktails, and training staff.

“They were also club people, so they didn’t really know spirits either. So, every week, we would take a spirit, learn the classics, make the classics...and then just build from that.”  

Eventually, she started managing cocktail bars in Glasgow, until she landed the job with Bruichladdich and moved to London. While working in London, Abi picked up work on the weekends at the famous White Lyan cocktail bar in London. 

“They were making drinks like they’d never been made before. Everything was pre-batched, which is normal now, but it wasn’t like that then. There was no fresh fruit, no ice, nothing shaken. Everyone was losing their minds, like ‘You can’t have cocktails without ice!’. It was unbelievably creative.” She tells me about the best cocktail she’s ever had: “Salad” (now available from The Seed Library), that has lettuce, herbs, gin, and red apple soda and tastes just like salad. And another where they used dissolved chicken bones to give the cocktail minerality. 

Moving from the cutting edge of the London cocktail scene to the international malts scene gives Abi a particular insight into how whisky is consumed and enjoyed in different cultures. One difference Abi finds is the emphasis on pairing with food in certain countries.  

“The UK loves food pairings as well, but in a different way than say, China. In China, every night I did a whisky dinner.”  

And then there are the themes of discussion. What do people want to talk about as they sip their drams (slowly in the West, and significantly faster in China, Abi notes)? 

“I'd say in the UK, people love hearing stories about the distillery, about the people that make it, and why we make it. And the philosophy of the distillery. Why we're different is something that really resonates, especially in the UK. Europe and America too – everybody really loves storytelling.” 

Abi contrasts this with China where there’s a stronger focus on age and quality, and the Nordic countries and Taiwan where there’s an enthusiasm for the granular detail of production.

“I think the main difference, though – especially in the regions that I visit – is the temperature,” says Abi. “It’s much hotter there [Asia] and so people definitely prefer to add a bit of ice.

“And highballs – people drink highballs in other countries because it’s so hot. It’s a way to enjoy the purity of the whisky. Classic Laddie in a highball is perfection. It's 50% alcohol, so you've got a little bit more to play with in terms of the ABV, so it doesn't get washed out. And the bubbles just really enhance the sweetness. Also, because we mature everything on the island, you get that sort of salinity in all our liquids, which means it kind of seasons the cocktails.” 

The thinking on whether or not a single malt Scotch belongs in a cocktail may have less to do with culture and more to do with mindset. Scotch is steeped in tradition and deeply embedded into the cultural psyche in Scotland. It’s there for the celebrations, the mournings, the heavy conversations, and as a quiet finish to a long day. This depth of tradition is no doubt a part of why it draws such a passionate following. But also, why, historically, there have been such strong opinions on how Scotch should be consumed. As the spirit’s global popularity grows, these opinions begin to soften.  

Abi says, “I think – as most people who work in whisky do – that if it’s yours, you should drink it however you like. With the range of flavour that there is in whisky, it would be crazy not to experiment with it.”  

Bruichladdich, she says is a perfect example. Inspired by its rich stone fruit and malt flavours, Abi made for a heavenly ice cream float: Classic Laddie, Peach Jubel beer, and vanilla ice cream. This is not how most would think to take their whisky, but she assured me it tasted amazing. 

And then you have something like Port Charlotte with notes from that second fill red wine cask and that smoke comes in at the end. This combo makes it pair really well with red fruits. Abi’s recommendation is to try it in a French martini or in place of tequila in an El Diablo with ginger beer and creme de mure. 

“I think whisky cocktails can be more fun,” she proclaims. “There’s been a push-back against fun.” 

And if there’s anything we could all use more of these days, it’s fun. 

“Obviously, it’s much better now, but historically, whisky cocktails have been quite serious.”

Given Abi’s experience in both the cutting-edge cocktail and the global whisky scenes, I was curious to know if she had anything she’d like to say to novices to the Scotch world.

“Don’t be scared to ask questions,” she states. “Nobody is really a connoisseur. When you taste something, do you like the flavour or do you not like the flavour? That’s all that’s important. You don’t need to be a specialist – just say what’s in your head. Whisky can be fun; it can be inclusive.” 

And it can be experimental. Bruichladdich has always been about experimentation, and as she says, “So why not once it’s in the bottle?”. 

Abi would like to assure Scotch newcomers that “there are people willing to sit down and have a chat about it, rather than preach or tell you you’re only allowed to do it one way. Because that’s not real life. There’s not one way to do anything. 

“If you want to get into the granular detail, we have that at Bruichladdich. But also, it doesn’t have to be so serious. It’s meant to be enjoyed and shared. That’s the point of whisky. That’s why people love it so much – the human element of it.”

And are there any questions Brand Ambassadors would rather not be asked?

“You don’t always have to ask women who work at whisky shows if they drink whisky. Because they obviously do,” she says, laughing. “I get that question every single time I do a show.”

Abi’s message to the whisky world? Relax. Enjoy – whatever way you like it.