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Mashing Islay Barley

IN The Distillery 19th July 2016/by Jane Carswell
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We are now Mashing Islay Barley in order to distill some of the unpeated grain grown on Islay last summer.

Mashmen Graham Hayes, Graham Kirk, and Robert McEachern are watching over the milling, soaking, and careful draining of the grist – processes all designed to maximise the extraction of its natural sugars – before initiating fermentation through in the tun room. It’s a delicate balance of volumes and timing, requiring patience and relying on the mashman’s knowledge and experience; the quantity of water entering the mashtun is measured in inches (186 litres an inch) and the barley can behave differently with each batch.

The creation of the wash, a sort of beer or proto-whisky, is continually monitored through the liberal use of thermometers, hydrometers, and dipsticks, and calls for the mechanics of pumps, valves, taps and heat exchangers but famously not computers.

The dry grain absorbs a proportion of the ‘first water’, so the mashman must correctly judge how much to add into the mashtun in the ‘second water’ so as to achieve the anticipated combined drainage of 35,000 litres at the best concentration of sugars. Graham Kirk finds, ‘This barley holds onto a lot of water.’ The mashmen agree that the grain is bulky, as do the hauliers who struggle to fit the regular 28 tonne delivery from the maltsters into the trucks.

The only real proof of whether everything has gone to plan is, primarily, whether the correct space is left above the liquid after it has been mixed with yeast in each of the individually calibrated 6m tall washbacks of oregon pine. The washback dipstick is in cm; the target on washback 2 is a watermark at 154. Of course, if the liquid heats up its volume changes, so keeping the temperature low as the washback is filling is a particular challenge at this time of year.

Ultimately, the results of the mashman’s endeavour is shown in the alcohol yields at distillation. And in the drinking of what will become Bruichladdich Islay Barley 2016.

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WMD – THE STORY OF THE YELLOW SUBMARINE HAS BEEN FULL OF CHARACTER AND CHARACTERS RIGHT FROM THE BEGINNING.

It started with our friend ‘Demolition Dave’ helping Duncan McGillivray and his gang to demolish the old Inverleven distillery – buying up all the old equipment for scrap and loading it onto barges on the Clyde. All so Duncan had some spares to keep Bruichladdich running in the days of No Money.

As this odd flotilla was being towed round the Mull of Kintyre and up to Islay, Laddie MD Mark Reynier received an email from the Defence Threat Reduction Agency (DTRA) in the USA who had been monitoring distillery webcams on the grounds that our processes could have been ‘tweaked’ to produce the dreaded WMD. ‘Weapons of Mass Destruction’.

Never one to allow the opportunity for a good story to pass him by, or to get his beloved distillery in the news, Reynier embellished the tale, which soon grew to involve spies and the CIA and visits by weapons inspectors. All of which made great headline-grabbing copy in the febrile media atmosphere then prevailing around WMD.

One of the stills from Inverleven was dutifully set up outside the old Victorian buildings, and became an iconic sight, with a pair of Duncan’s old wellie boots sticking out of the top to represent those weapons inspectors searching for dangerous chemicals deep in its copper bottomed interior.

A special bottling was commissioned (of course) and dubbed the ‘Whisky of Mass Distinction’ (geddit?) and much hilarity ensued. At least among the Laddies, the rest of the whisky industry having long since given up on the noisily irreverent rebels.

WMDII: A YELLOW SUBMARINE

Things were about to get even more eccentric because, shortly afterwards, Islay fisherman John Baker was heading home to Port Ellen when he spotted something awash in the sea off the bow of his boat. Being a resourceful man, he attached a rope to said object and towed it into the pier where Gordon Currie lifted it out of the water. It proved to be a very beautiful yellow submarine.

Very conveniently, the yellow vessel had ‘Ministry of Defence’ and a telephone number stencilled on it, which was of course immediately called. What happened next was to become the stuff of legend. He was connected to the Royal Navy. “I have found your yellow submarine” said John. “We haven’t lost a yellow submarine” said the Navy. Which was an odd response as the evidence to the contrary was overwhelming.

John and Gordon then loaded the submarine onto a lorry and took it to a secret location in Port Ellen (actually fellow fisherman Harold Hastie’s back garden). The local newspaper was called, then the nationals, and the following day the red-tops were full of pictures of the two friends astride the lethal-looking machine, carrying fishing rods, and asking: “Has anybody lost a yellow submarine?”

Hilarious… unless you were the Royal Navy – who did eventually admit to it being theirs. HMS Blyth, the minesweeper that lost it, eventually came to pick it up, slipping into the pier at dawn to winch it aboard. By that time, Bruichladdich had (of course) commissioned another bottling, WMD2: The Yellow Submarine, and a box of lovely liquid was graciously offered, and accepted by the captain as a goodwill gesture.

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