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Organic
Ever wondered what whisky used to taste like a hundred, two hundred, even five
hundred years ago? In the nineteenth century all whisky, would have been
distilled from organically grown barley. It was the birth of intensive farming
during the wars, integral to the survival of these islands, which ended the
traditional farming ways known to our forefathers. Whisky must have tasted
different back then.
Today organic farmers are rediscovering farming of a pre-industrial era, the
reconnection with time-honoured working of the land that had been unchanged for
five thousand years. It celebrates individuality, the delicate harmony between
soil, subsoil, bedrock, microclimate, and plant. The French have a word for this
concept: ‘terroir’. Scotland, by default, had its own terroir too: specific
farms that grew barley in a soil that lived and breathed – not inert, dead,
waiting for its next chemical fix. This produced the whiskies of the nineteenth
century and before. Sadly, today it is homogenous, standard barley, most of it
not even grown in Scotland.
Green
Bruichladdich
In December 2003, Bruichladdich distilled the first, Organic Islay Whisky,
certified by Demeter. The Chalice barley was grown at Culblair Farm near
Inverness in a Site of Special Scientific Interest on glacial gravel deposits
with sand and loam and a touch of clay, one mile from the sea. It was malted and
shipped to Islay.
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