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Islay’s first 100% ‘Appellation
Islay Controllée’?
The Good Old Days
  Our
aim was to produce the first Islay whisky in living memory to be distilled from
Islay grown barley as part of our strategy of rediscovering the pre-industrial
art of distilling. Were whiskies of the nineteenth centaury different to those
of today with today’s industrial efficiency? Has some of the individuality been
lost at the expense of standardisation? The character, the originality
forgotten in the drive for efficiency? For complete authenticity, using our old
Victorian distilling equipment still in use today, we decided if anyone could
prove it, one way or the other, we could.
The Concept of “Terroir”
  We
want to explore the aspects of different locations and the effects that has on
the barley, and its subsequent fermentation and distillation. European
winemakers, particularly the French, have a word for it: “terroir” -
the complex, almost mystical interaction of bedrock, sub-soil, soil, exposition
and micro-climate with the vine. Often denounced by large producers (for
obvious reasons) as folklore, the differing influences on the vine, and
therefore the wine character, is well documented over 1500 years to the extent
that in Europe, and increasingly in the US and Australia, ‘terroirs’, or
specific locations, are enshrined in law. But does ‘terroir’ exist for
whisky? Would barley grown in different climates, on We commissioned barley
grown on three separate farms, from specific fields with different geology to
been malted, milled, mashed, and fermented separately to see the difference – if
any.
The Origin of Flavour in New Spirit
  The
principle of alcoholic fermentation is the same for wine as it is for whisky.
Instead of grapes, the sugar source comes from malted barley. 60% of the flavour
of a new spirit (or wine) is obtained at the time of fermentation, from the
complex interaction of the three raw ingredients - water, yeast and barley.
Surely the origin, type and growing conditions of that barley must be a
fundamental component to the flavour of the spirit? Eau de Vie de Poire
William, where the sugar source is pear macerated in water, fermented with
yeast and distilled, tastes of ….er… pear.
The Chalice Overfloweth
We have commissioned organically grown Chalice barley from
specific fields on Coulmore and Culblair farms on the mainland, and Kentraw
Farm a mile from the distillery. The latter was planted by Raymond Stuart on
fields on the ‘bruichladdich’ or raised beach - marine deposits made up
of sand, pebbles etc. where no crops have been grown for at least 15 years;
although not entirely organic, the well-drained soil is free from decades of
chemicals.
Would it All End in Tears?
  At
the outset there was much doubt that it would be feasible to obtain a
sufficiently ripe crop. The wind would destroy the crop. Despite an uninspiring
summer, the crop ripened. Harvest time on Islay in glorious weather is a special
moment, and even more so when history is being made. Our first harvest of
Islay-grown was completed on Wednesday 8th September. For Duncan
McGillivray, Distillery Manager, whose family used to farm this estate post the
war, it was a particularly poignant moment: “There was concern that the moisture
content would be too high for malting, but the measurement read a surprisingly
satisfying 17%. When the rest of the UK has been struggling under torrential
rain resulting in ruined harvests, we were mighty pleased to have a good
inaugural harvest under our belts.”
Grist to Bruichladdich’s Mill
After a two month dormancy period, the 21 tonnes of barley
was malted and the first mashing took place on Wednesday 1st
December. Malting barley had not been grown commercially on Islay since before
the first world war – mainland crops proving to be more reliable and higher
yielding - more alcohol per tonne. We were not expecting the same level of
alcohol as would be associated with mainland Scottish barley, yet Distillery
Manager Duncan McGillivray was very pleasantly surprised to register an
identical potential alcohol figure as our usual Scottish barley.
“Totally different to mill - we had to tighten the top mill
rollers by 8% providing a lower ratio of 11.5% husk, 13.4% flour 75.1% middles
in the grist as opposed to the usual 15.% husks, 15.6% flour, and 68.6%
middles.”
Mashing Surprises
“In the mash tun it has been unusually bulky – very fluffy
- resulting in good drainage, so the wort has run very cleanly indeed meaning
that the sugar extraction is much better than could ever have been expected.
I am well impressed with the clarity of the wort which as
an original specific gravity of 58 the same as we get from mainland Scottish
barley - meaning a potential of 395 to 400 litres of alcohol per tonne when
distilled - this is a very pleasant surprise.
As Mr Sceptical, this was much better than I ever
expected - yet a very different malt indeed. The sweetness coming from Washback
Number 3 is amazing! The wort has a fantastic flavour, very distinctive – quite
nutty, almost walnuts – you can smell it the moment you walk into the tun room.
This is entirely different: it is deeper, more concentrated in flavour than I
have ever seen. I cannot wait to see the spirit starting to run on Monday
evening that will be a very special moment…”
  And the Proof?
To ensure complete separation of the spirit, the feints from
the preceding distillation are decanted and stored elsewhere. Distilling started
on Monday 6th December at 9.00am, with the first cut of new spirit
at 5.43pm on Monday Evening. Check out the web cameras
to witness the rebirth of Bruichladdich Islay Grown or if you missed it
download a video clip
here.
We will have to wait and see….
The Offer...
1 case (12 x
70cl) Islay Grown 2004 futures @ 46% Vol
£ 325 In Bond
One case comprises 12 x 70cl bottles.
Islay Grown 2004 futures will be bottled at 46% Vol, without chill-filtration or
added colour.
Orders are restricted to one case of 12 bottles per person/credit card
holder/address. The Distillery reserves the right to refuse any orders to anyone
who is believed by the Distillery already to own a case of Islay Grown 2004
futures.
Title of Islay Grown 2004 Futures is non-transferable.
The date of the inaugural bottling will be at the discretion of Jim McEwan,
which is anticipated to be no less than eight years.
The Islay Grown 2004 futures will have a unique livery.
Labels will be numbered and autographed.
Purchase online
via the laddieshop here
or download the offer
here
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